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The Truth About the Fact: An International Journal of Literary Nonfiction

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The Truth About the Fact: A Journal of Literary Nonfiction is an international journal committed to the idea that excellence in the art of letters can play a vital role in transforming the planet we share.

Tuesday, April 13, 2010

Surf Therapy

As I plunge into the chilly darkness, cold water fills my ears, nose, and throat. I spin around in the muted rush, not sure whether I’m up or down, but not thinking of my orientation. I am failing helplessly into oblivion as my thoughts blur and instinct takes over. Immense swirling pressure has me completely overtaken. I force my lungs to hold in air, searching my hazy, waterlogged view for the light of surface that I must struggle to for sanctuary.

I break through the water’s surface, drawing in strangling breaths of fresh air that have never been so appreciated. And a huge grin comes across my face.

After the couple years during which I failed to make the effort to surf, I was ecstatic to get back out in the water. In my high school years, surfing became more than a hobby; it became a mild obsession with which I happily devoted time, money, and effort to.

The challenge of the sport is exhilarating. To stand on a board and ride down a plunging wave is not an easy task. And after a lot, I mean a lot, of practice, catching on and gaining any ability in surfing is truly intoxicating. Riding a wave, feeling in physical control and connected to the water, to your board, to the power underneath you, is unique and addictive. It’s easy to fall in love with the feeling.

The power of the ocean can be frightening, especially when encountered by an unmanageable wave. But I wasn’t surprised to find myself grinning after a huge wipe out. Out of breath, disheveled and exhausted, I couldn’t help but feel content. Sitting on a board in the rolling ocean is meditative. For those few hours in the water, stress fades away, menial tasks of every day life get put on the back burner, built up anxiety is lessened. What becomes important is finding that right wave, succeeding in catching it.

Corinna Ace


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